The research is all here, but what climbers choose to do with it is entirely up to them. 1. How does introducing your own slightly different version solve this problem? The EBSB does not require a stopper knot, but I still almost always do one. You are publishing your article to the world via the internet and as such, you need to make sure that the information you convey is accurate (which it is not). There are documented accidents of every other version of the Bowline (coming loose even if done correctly), but not one of the Double Bowline. This doesn't make any scientific sense. Examples of secure Bowlines include: Scotts locked Bowline, EBSB Bowline and Lee's link Bowline; all of which are totally secure and stable. Lead climbers (in particular) need to be ‘consciously competent’. According to testing by the DAV, it is just as secure and strong as a figure 8 but unties much easier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeU8x7OmxoQ. But if you find yourself climbing hard sport and projecting a great deal, you might find a bowline to be a superior choice. The major disadvantages are. The answer is the same as with many climbing conundrums – it depends. Bowline is significantly weaker than Figure-of-Eight (the experimental results vary a lot, but as a rule of thumb, Bowline seems to be 10-20% weaker than Figure-of-Eight), though this point is in a vast majority of cases in climbing not a serious concern. Good luck doing that with a rethreaded figure 8. Which knot for climbing: figure eight, yosemite bowline, bowline on a bight? The rethreaded bowline is sometimes called a double bowline but isn't, German title notwithstanding. This is clear in the sentence. Thanks, I hoped for such a nice answer! 使用できるHTMLタグ：